Gas information

I will list and describe these gases based on power (PSI at the same volume and temperature [20°C]) from lowest to highest. This is a work in progress so I'll add edits as I can.

HFC134A/duster gas/HFC152A: The lowest powered gas and is the only commercially sold gas for the purpose of airsoft in Japan. It is called duster gas because it is a propellant in computer duster. Computer duster can be used in your gun if you use the AI duster gas adapter that is included with their propane adapter. It does not exhibit the "cooldown" effect that green gas typically does (well it does a little, but not to near the same degree because of the lower vapor pressure). It is best used in Japanese pistols like Tokyo Marui, WA, and Marushin.

HFC152A: 73.96924624240671 PSI at 20°C. It is also a low powered refrigerant found in duster cans. Its chemical formula is C2H4F2. It shares most properties of HFC134A, and is commonly found in duster cans. It has no ozone depletion and does not contribute to global climate change. It is also used in Japan. I do not recommend using HFC152A. The reason is that if it is intentionally inhaled it can cause asphyxiation and/or death. It is hard to tell which gas you are getting when using it from computer duster, so please be very careful. Many cans that contain a bitterant usually contain HFC152. Personally I would just buy Marui 134A in bulk so I wouldn't worry about it, but the choice and risk is yours.

Green gas/TOP Gas/Propane/Guarder gas: Green gas is the standard that is used in most places around the world. It's chemical composition is C3H8, same as propane, but it often has a small amount of other gas, usually butane (the ratio is usually about 2-5% butane, the rest propane). They have silicone oil premixed. In order to use propane you must use a propane adapter and silicone oil. Guarder gas is C3H8 as well, but its lubricant is teflon. Green gas is best used in pistols with a metal slide. However Tokyo Marui has recently begun to reinforce their plastic slides in order to handle green gas.

Propylene/propene/MAPP gas: Proplyene is an organic compound that is commonly used as a welding gas. Its chemical makeup is C3H6. It is more powerful than green gas but less powerful than red gas. It does not like o rings and seals so it is not recommended to use. Upon further research it seems that its use is safe in airsoft guns. It is commonly used in the UK because it is easier to access than propane in small tanks. It also provides better performance there due to the cold climate. Magazines and guns should be reinforced before using. A propane style adapter and silicone oil are necessary in order to use.

Red gas/HCFC-22/HFC22/R-22/Chlorodifluoromethane: 131.69426585902997 PSI at 20 °C. It is currently illegal to import into the USA and will soon be illegal to posses because it is an ozone depletent and potent greenhouse gas. Its chemical formula is HCFC-22. It is the most powerful of all the HydroCarbon based gases. Most guns cannot handle the pressure of the gas. Magazines and guns should highly reinforced before use.


Black gas/CO2: Black gas is generally accepted as CO2 but it is often debated. Finding a store that sells a gas labeled as black gas is nearly impossible. CO2 should only be used in guns that are made for it such as the Umarex Tactical Force Combat or the G&G extreme .45. It contains no lubricant but it does not dissolve seals and o-rings either, so lubrication of seals should be performed as a part of regular maintenance. Do not buy CO2 and use it in a regular GBB.



*NOTES*:
All of the hydrocarbon gases contain lubricant if purchased from an airsoft store and are used for the purpose of airsoft.
That means propane, propene, and computer duster, require separate lubrication through an adapter.
Individual results will vary.

From Dani Mardini: This is a somewhat disputed topic, so make what you will of this. IMO Green Gas has more silicon oil than it should. The best way to lube mag seals is IMO to use straight oil to do it manually with the mag empty of gas (take the propane adaptor, not attached, and push the fill valve in and out a few times after applying a couple drops of silicon oil, and do the same for the thumb valve, using your thumb for the valve rather than the propane adapter obviously). The seals are the only things that need it. The rest of the internals can get gummed up overtime with improper cleaning and don't need it (the piston head really needs a thicker grease, not so much an oil). To that end I prefer propane to green gas. Not to mention that it's cheaper and safer since it comes in a strong steel can with an overpressure release valve rather than a flimsy aluminum aerosol can. Again, these are just my thoughts, and this is a bit of a disputed topic, so take this, and anything else you may see on it, with a grain of salt.